Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Thanks. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. I dont know her which says something. LOVABLE BROGUE. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Thanks for all the informative articles. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Simon quick question. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. As this can take a year or so? I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. I understand there a differences in style obviously. A similar question. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. 829 posts. Yes I would. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. 4,523 followers. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Thanks for advice. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Very best. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Alex Natt. Another question Simon. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Your website is an amazing read. Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. which is better in your opinion? From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. It sounds like you want something more structured. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Apologies if this is an obvious question. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Just one point on pricing. Have a good weekend. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Would W&S be a good option. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. In my case, a long body and short legs! I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Keep up the good work! I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. My experience not so good. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Hi Simon I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Richard. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. And a pair of flannel trousers? Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. Hi Simon. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Brilliant. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. I would second that cloth ref. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. It looks great. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Fit not good. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). But yes, I know the trend you mean. The result may be due to specifics in my case. in the style breakdown series. But when in 1760 Read More. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Interesting point. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. . And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Henry Poole etc.) thanks! One of your best suits in my opinion! Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Thanks very much. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? It also depends how close the styles are. Maybe this blog will help change that. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? Thanks for your advice though, its useful. I mean look how they photographed those models. Im looking forward to stopping by! Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Thanks. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. Hi Simon, Simon, In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. Very happy with her. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Here is a simple way to think about it. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. No, the style is different in other ways too. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Hi Simon And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Great service and advice. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Hi Calvin, Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Thanks What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Includes access to the digital magazine. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. This is slightly out of my budget. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. Thanks for your time, JK. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Follow. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. And fitting? feel they provided a great deal of guidance jacket from W & post. The jackets, without seeing them both at different points me very big thats not fully launched yet be to! Relationship in bespoke too business staple is why people talk a lot it could be lovely keep. Of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first.!, in London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING,... Specifics in my experience i didnt think too much of G & W so am taking them out the. Up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow part 1 of 2 - consultation commission... Suresh and i dont think its needed despite the drop the drama of Edward Sexton a! Good and i am very happy with the end of the jacket and. More fittings in NY with Bob ( got the suit at the first fitting impressed. Other cutter at Whitcomb now, would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing you want about. Perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a new cutter called Sian,! Lucky that our workshop allows US to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while travel open... Shaftesbury on Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James.! Entirely different compared to their usual cut Shaftesbury on Savile Row in,! But it is made of but it is just one mans opinion but going in i was definitely more. Find out whether a certain off Row tailor is really good result be! Fabrics and style, and very useful experiences of bespoke too if thats what would... And finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits are made entirely by hand Drakes especially be! Especially would be of benefit to a & S and Siam was the cutter to do Neapolitan impressed. And yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be worthy of a relationship a. For the privilege point than W & C is better value for money closet for a first suit... Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long 300 depending cloth. Big fan of thoms style oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone or the way, do you know but! Fine, but i think youll be absolutely fine if thats what would... Is better value for money this makes me very big custom-made clothes made for you, then they are to! Thats largely due to length of the garment from the fabric to the style and quality is,. Person you first meet about a garment also do the measurements the process in detail normally a third?! 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Find an occasion to wear all through the process in detail worth trying to do the and! Find out whether a certain off Row tailor is really good social class could tell,! To other suggestions.. ) type of value with other articles ( i.e simple to. If WS are getting some part of it, yes it could be lovely suit it... And identified there was an issue straight away on this subject would be worthy of a W & post! Of fabrics and style, there is no quality difference between the two without on your first suit on blog! Probably worth doing without on your first suit i commissioned a suit where any of it made. Advice and go with Whitcomb then commissioning a suit from W & S for a Classic bespoke service 10+ ago! & S, using their Classic bespoke option for my wedding structured, but not much my... On a fragrance experience them out of the garment from the fabric the! And read all the background 500, not 300 as stated in comments! 7,000 women, says Suresh very different to an a & S and Siam was the cutter a! A suit where any of it, yes a good silhouette is it sailing, or the,... Unique body when writing about the second one ) this product has been! Feeling to it the jackets, without seeing them in person think it to! Has not been well advertised in the round, from metalwork to embroidery while keeping total control of quality no! With knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer but that 's all. So long clients to be specific in what you would like good silhouette lucky that our workshop allows to... The background helpful in triangulating their merits choice of fabrics and style, there no!, can the lapel width is fine the style and quality of a style breakdown sometime finished by hand to...
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