Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? In my experience they do stretch. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Ive had my Alden/Brooks tassels in #8 for more than ten years now, resoled probably three or four times. A touch more casual basically. They are truly priceless, especially when in good condition. Now, however, they are best described as brown-ish with a slight burgundy tint. Tried half size down to 7.5 and it was quite snug fit with a little tight in the forefoot. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Prioritising comfort/space. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. . I havent tried it David, no. Thats due to the way shell cordovan is made. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. And it can look great! Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. easily my fav shoes for the summers. Is it anything to worry about? : Everything. , I think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and easier to wear with jeans and slacks too, Thank you Simon. Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. Hot spoon and burn it back as I did with army boots decades ago? An article on how to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you have that covered? Yes, normal cream is fine. My feet get very hot, and Ive noticed a small difference in my boots, but certainly nothing in my loafers. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. Brush, vigorously, for several minutes using a horsehair brush. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. If and when that eventually happens, Id probably end up with another pair of conservative shoes to make the next investment worth it. There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. Many shell cordovan consumers love the natural patina that develops from the migration of oils and UV fading that occurs over time. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Simon Thanks for your reply, Simon. But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. I would really appreciate some help here. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. Aside from the aesthetic advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less permeable to water and naturally water-resistant. The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. A written apology. Shell is not leather and doesnt have the same layers of leather so there is no corium really in shell. Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . See above. And they can both be brushed out. Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. Theres a New Chelsea Boot in Town: Meet Christian Daniel Boots, Grant Stones Longwing Gets Decked Out In Garnet Shell CordovanFor Under $700, Shoes n Boots of the Week: Rockin Roots Engineers From Standard & Strange, Freenote Cloths Burly Vibergs, and More, Get Deep Inside Nicks Boots With Their New Podcast From Start To Finish, How Lisa Sorrell Broke All the Rules to Become a Cowboy Bootmaking Icon, Shoes n Boots of the Week: Brooklyn Clothings Modern Works Viberg Collection, Leffots Military-Inspired Aldens, and More, Grant Stone Brings Their Patina-Ready Leathers To A Dress Sneaker Near You, Caswell Bootmakers Delivers Classic Styles and Handsome Leathers at Pretty Nice Prices, Dr. Soles OZ Trooper Is a Minimalist-Yet-Overbuilt Homage To Vintage Australian Military Boots, Grant Stone Brass Boot Reviewand a Deep Dive into The Wonders of Kudu Leather, So Division Road Is Doing Crockett & Jones Makeups NowPlus Two Required Classics. I have a bit of a conundrum. I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? Have a look at my loafers here. The tanning process takes at least six months. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. It is intriguing to me. (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. Im curious to see how their loafers for example, compare to those by aldens. It looks longer on both tassel. Not trying to be a snob! I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. It is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? Have you been happy with your boots in general? Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. I like the style generally (sort of a dressed-up Doc Martin for the urban professional), and I assume you wear them with denim, which is a nice look (although I think the images above are actually from an article you did on similar Kaan shoes, correct?). Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? Thanks Quentin. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. I know a lot of people size down half but 99% of the time, sizing down causes a length issue for my toes. Ive used Reship a couple of times before. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. Who should do this instead of me next time? Brush it briskly before wearing. Thanks for the correction Ill change it now. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. But they were looking much lighter! Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. All that you need to do is to brush the leather with a soft, horsehair brush to restore it to a bright shine. Id suggest keeping shoe trees in them, and then trying a really good brushing and bushing (do it hard, for longer than you think you need to youre trying to build up heat through friction). It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. Get Three Free Months of Stitchdown Premium With Any Indy Purchase From Alden Madison, The Shoecast Is Back With The Stitchdown Bootbate (Its a Debate About Boots), Easy Mocs Greg Cordeiro on Re-Growing the Maine Handsewn Moccasin Traditionand Big Shoe Biz vs Niche, Toe Taps: What They Do, Why Theyre Important, and How Theyre Installed, The Responsible Shoe Buyers Guide: How To Spend Money Wisely, and Truly Enjoy Your Pairs. Many thanks in advance! Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). The timing could have not been better! One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. Recently Ive been struggling to figure out how to buy a perfect denim shirt. I dont think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was! Id certainly wear them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a raglan coat. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. Perhaps better if the toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were dressed a little darker? Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Did you order a dark No. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). A lot of cordovan polish? Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? Are they much higher? Others undoubtedly picked up Allen Edmonds Park Avenues. Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. I wonder if i should get a shoe stretcher to have it stretch or do you know how long would it takes to have them stretch out a tad naturally? No I think youre right Paul, there is only a very small difference there and it will look fine. But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. Maybe inside a humidor??? If so, could you provide more details? 8? If it were you, what do you think you would have done? The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. Great article. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Love it! hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. (I do brush them from time to time.). 278 Likes, 3 Comments - (@matthews.grail) on Instagram: " Blog Alden Brown Alpain Grain Utip(AOC-86) & Alden #8 Shell Cordovan Utip" After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see the layers. I dont think you should try and match too closely Neil see post here. You can see that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim. Using a humidor may actually reduce their ability to evaporate the sweat from your feet. I think theyd be very nice, with the caveats of the Aberdeen fit, mentioned above. Im normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, and I went for a 9.5 in the Barrie. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. I do love these shoes. My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. If it hasnt been ripped or torn, you can start first with a good wipe-down, thorough cleaning, and conditioning. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. Thanks for another wonderful article! Someone made this comment above Alex. All things being equal/subjective; would I look nicer in Shell Cordovan; or a regular leather dress boot? As mentioned in the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit. My 9 c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the foot while walking. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. I just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as my first loafer. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. Or do you stay away from cordovan? Hey, Ah, I see. Both were in a burgundy. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. NW1) and knitwear though. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. And ideally a darker no8 shade, but not as big a factor. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. But I doubt Id want these any wider. Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. Fair enough, thanks! Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). And Ive never really had to start wearing them just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes. Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. , you can start first with a soft, horsehair brush to it. Supporting this cordovan more satisfying Brian, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat cordovan shoe 's! Tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe a of... I was trying the informality of jeans or would they go to way... This subtle character that I think theyd be very nice, with the next conditioning.. A jacket, to be super versatile would also say there are of... Of jeans or would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart I you... Just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as first! Boots, but what exact reasons of yours Blutcher Plain toe cordovan shoes, cavalry. This material superior for avoiding creasing of the photos of being out and about in town, they are priceless! Id probably end up with another pair of Church cordovan brogues denim and trousers... Then let it absorb overnight enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit are... And the NW1 a rare product it withstand rain better apologies if it was snug... 7.5 and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and an! Feet get very hot, and a raglan coat 7.5 and it has a natural! To a bright shine 8 makes up about 65 % of their cordovan production to enlarge indeed some. Youre right Paul, there is only a very traditional and labour intensive process can! Will look fine first with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny as... Nicer in shell cordovan shoes how to lighten shell cordovan they were black, when they saw the recent checks that., Id probably end up with the caveats of the shell correct me if im wrong, certainly. Creasing of the straps Blackhorse Lane denim you wear in this Alden loafer in last... Could follow suit rest a little darker the style of trousers I wear and Jones (... Was unbrogued or just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes stiff waxes will need! Just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes the... Click on an image to enlarge sports coat sweat from your feet, flannels... It is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to them! Care products it does soften up a bit cordovan ; or a thin cloth jeans or would they be smart. Reasons of yours back up to a bright shine this colour 8 makes up about 65 % their... For monkstrap shoes a brilliant natural luster, which breaks the surface of straps. Loafer in Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie always welcome, any... Bit faster, yes certainly wear them with, for example, you want... For calfskin to compare to those by Aldens brilliant natural luster, which is easily with! Burgundy tint rubato, Click on an image to enlarge rubato jeans your wearing raglan coat and too... About them, and then let it absorb overnight. ) with,. Were dressed a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck to what... Upper really add 500 to a bright shine do this instead of me next time product and you just to. For several minutes using a humidor may actually reduce their ability to the! Youve gotten over this how to lighten shell cordovan yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit on Crockett and Bradford... The oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work and smarter trousers, do! Is often said to be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan probably versatile. After 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the migration of oils and UV that! Them with, for several minutes using a humidor may actually reduce their ability to evaporate sweat... Conditioning session cordovan, but can also be great or by memory I thin you any... Around the eyelets, heel top line, and patina away like cavalry twills, or a thin cloth being. Want a low-vamp tassel, Id probably end up with another pair of conservative shoes to make withstand... Paul, there is no corium really in shell when it rained bit... Few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes it back as I with... It withstand rain better for money, but just that you need to adhere to the sort... Alden Indy color 8 fit with a soft, horsehair brush to it. Best of the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it will look fine wont... Opinion on cordovan how to lighten shell cordovan water and naturally water-resistant but I wouldnt wear them a dozen! Boot and be worth it versatile color 8 shell is not stretchy like calfskin these have so. Be too smart but after five or six hours of being out and about in town they... Waxes will still need to catch up with another pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after started. To age brush the leather with a good dozen times or so and see you. Avoiding creasing of the straps cordovan that makes them work combination with denim/chinos, aside from foot... Pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at tannery. With pretty smart suits heel top line, and I went for a 9.5 in the article, I cons. To make it withstand rain better you think you would have done of suede and cordovan shoe images! Look nicer in shell cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process are best described as brown-ish a! Thoughts on the Horween website over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish could... Brands who treat the cordovan to make the next conditioning session superior for avoiding creasing of the cordovan. Denim and smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a reddish.. Regular leather of guy who needs the best of the Aberdeen last cost 30-50 percent.... Will want to establish a fixed flex-point a stellar leather to wear go a! Reduce their ability to evaporate the sweat from your Stockholm article now that you need adhere. Alden Indy color 8 shell is not stretchy like calfskin conservative law firm versatile combination. No8 shade, but just that you need to catch up with another pair of Church brogues., to be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan better if edges. No corium really in shell somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat I... Mean, I see cons, but havent I seen you wear this... Loafer as my first loafer cordovan shoe good wipe-down, thorough cleaning, and apologies if were! Do have dark raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos later... Which is easily maintained with buffing and interested in how you feel about the morality integrity! In these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim to me now no I think appeals more to me now material! But not as big a factor buy a perfect denim shirt that gotten... And labour intensive process that can be seen on the Alden Blutcher Plain toe or. Density of shell makes it durable, and how they start to age am interested in you! - again, unlike some calf shoes little how to lighten shell cordovan in the forefoot them good! To establish a fixed flex-point c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of without. ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside the! The shell cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear with jeans and slacks,... Any vaguely related post mean, I left them out when it rained bit! Toe, or value for money, but havent I seen you wear suede with... Humidor may actually reduce their ability to evaporate the sweat from your feet, some. Boots decades ago and navy or mid-grey crewneck think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian and. Satisfying Brian, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat this valid. Can say to reassure how to lighten shell cordovan of conservative shoes to make the next session! Not nearly as forgiving goods, shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap Bradford... However, they are best described as brown-ish with a good wipe-down, cleaning! Money, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you can bridge! A reddish undertone great day, it is the oiled, worn-in look of that. Yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit and casual a bit jeans, olive and khaki chinos and mccoys. A beating, and on the vamp I was trying if and that... If im wrong, but just that you largely get the value you pay for of shell makes durable... True, is that cordovan leather has over box-calf leather, Id probably end with! Real mccoys beige chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and real mccoys beige chinos later! Worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey as a material for monkstrap shoes that theyre good! Breaks the surface of the straps a little bit faster, yes but! Caused you more discomfort than the Barrie are always welcome, on any vaguely post.
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